The Joy of Bodysurfing

Posted on February 01, 2007 @ 2:38 PM

Now, working as a surf photographer gives me a fair amount of time in the water, and in some ways
it has become a kind of replacement to bodysurfing. Time spent in the water as a photographer has
superseded time spent surfing or bodysurfing.

I’ve been living on the North Shore of Oahu for almost 10 years and have come to know some
wonderful characters. One of them is ace water photographer Daren Crawford, who’s also an extremely
talented bodysurfer. Hanging out with Daren has refueled my interest in bodysurfing again. Some of
the very best waves I’ve ever seen ridden have been during our “body-bash sessions” on this stretch
of coast. We find that Off The Wall is usually the best in the early season, while Pupukea has the gold
during the late season on north swells. It gets truly ridiculous sometimes – just shimmering, glowing,
green walls, like blown glass.

Most people conventionally bodysurf the face of the wave, endeavoring to keep moving and hopefully
cop a little cover up somewhere along the way, right? Then there are the real freaks. They can do spins on
the face of the wave; some even go around with the lip. You’ll see those guys at the Pipeline bodysurfing
event each year, but more about that later ... Then there are the guys who can tap into the pure energy
of the wave by positioning themselves high up the wave, but totally under water. The power of the wave
carries them, just like when you see a dolphin surfing a wave. It’s this kind of bodysurfing that looks truly
amazing on those glassy, clear green days. It’s totally different to watch. Speaking of which, if you haven’t
done it yet, next time you see people bodysurfing in really clear water, grab a pair of goggles and take a
look at it underneath. You’ll be amazed. It truly is like nothing you’ve ever seen before.

I don’t know what it is exactly about bodysurfing, but it has a strong allure to me. I have to make
a living as a surf photographer, but despite that, I’ve passed up many a session that would have
produced dollars, just so that I can bodysurf instead. Daren (Crawford), our many bodysurfing friends
and I, have formed a loose-knit group we call “The Insiders”. When it’s glassy, and 3-5ft, there’s a
good chance you’ll catch us out at OTW, Pupukea, or Waimea if it’s a little too big for the other spots.
Waimea shorebreak is one gnarly, powerful wave. It approaches from deep water and dredges up onto
a super-shallow sandbar. The ride is pretty damn spectacular. The place can and will hurt you eventually.
I fractured a collarbone there one day on what seemed to be a pretty insignificant wave. That’s when it’ll
get you, when you least expect it.

The best wave I ever saw anyone bodysurf was on a day at Backdoor a few years ago. Dave
Wassel is a sick surfer and now also a lifeguard at the Ehukai Beach tower. He’s a good all-round
waterman for sure. If I were in trouble out there, I’d be stoked to know that Dave was taking control.

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The Joy of Bodysurfing

Posted on February 01, 2007 @ 2:38 PM

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